The Fulbright Alumni Service Corps Foursome Who Opened the Window to Albania

Thanks to the vision, dedication, hours of collaboration and planning, this inaugural Fulbright Alumni Service Corps was a success.  Their passions for sharing the Fulbright mission and preserving cultural heritage created a new program for alumni to expand and enrich their Fulbright experience.  Many thanks to Nancy, Lejla, Mary Ellen,and Jonathon.

Nancy Neill, Lejla Hadzic, Mary Ellen Schmider. Jonathon Eaton

Reflection

No words can adequately explain the friendships, emotional and educational growth, and the impact of our inaugural Fulbright Alumni Service Corps Trip, so aptly named, "A Window to Albania."

Here are some thoughts from looking out that window:

Fulbright:

• Fulbright had already made a powerful impact on Albania:  the Minister of Agriculture learned about the downfalls of  farming subsidies while in the US and instead is working for cooperative farming; the Dean of University of Tirana stated that Fulbright has enriched the institution.
• Fulbright is a highly respected organization overseas:  the Mayor of Tirana and the Ambassador, neither Fulbright Alumni, invited us to meet with them. 
• Fulbright Alumni are in professions that have influence in Albania, and those alumni are continuing the spirit of the organization.
• Fulbright Alumni of all ages are enjoyable travel companions:  interesting, curious, knowledgeable, and adaptable to new surroundings and situations.
• The Task Force of Fulbright Board Members that organizes Insight and Service Trips do a phenomenal job. While in Albania, I kept thinking, "It can't get any better,"  but the trip did get better every day!

Cultural Heritage without Borders:

• First class organization deserving of its awards;
• Dedicated, organized, diligent, knowledgeable, progressive, welcoming  and appreciative staff and volunteers who are fluent in English;
• Hires experts in their fields for training for Restoration Camps;
• Understands and appreciates diversity;
• Employs talented and easy-to-work-with craftsmen.

Albania and Albanians

• Albania is a beautiful country with its riviera and mountains.
• Albanian food is delicious, fresh, and organic.
• 70% of the sage America imports is from Albania.
• Albania has endured many invasions, bombings during WWII, little independence, a brutal Communist government for forty years.
• Albanians are resilient, resourceful, open-minded, hopeful, appreciative, humble, friendly, and very hospitable.
• Albania is developing at a fast rate.

The trip was valuable for all of us.  The staff of CHwB were impressed by our energy, curiosity, and down-to-earth friendliness.  They loved seeing us enjoy their Restoration Camp, site seeing, and restoration work.  We loved our service work, tours, meals, and time with each other.  Indeed, Senator William Fulbright's goal-- to create mutual understanding among all people of the world --was fulfilled 100% on the inaugural, "Window to Albania."


The followup of this trip is two fold:  one, maintaining friendships among fellow travelers and Albanians; two, planning more service trips with CHwB.

You may contact Mary Stanton at rstanton5@comcast.net.

Day Twelve: Tirana and Spac Prison

The copper mine at Spaci was used as a forced-labor camp for political prisoners for twenty-four years from 1967 to 1991.  The conditions were inhumane and many died from malnutrition, exhaustion, or attempted escapes.

Our tour guide Zenel Drangu, an exprisoner of Spac

View of Guards' quarters from prisoner's barracks

Prisoners' cells 5m by 6 m and 30 to a room

Prisoners' writings on the wall of their rooms

We were invited to visit the home of a family who helped escaping prisoners.  We were feted with homemade feta, honey, yogurt, and raki.

The family's goats and bees provided the ingredients.

The son (left) and the father (right)

We celebrated our last night of the trip at a micro brewery in Tirana and said our goodbyes.

Day Eleven: Tirana and Albanian Alumni

We connected with many Albania Alumni in Tirana in their workplaces where they opened windows to prominent Albanians who were eager to meet with us.  We met with the Minister of Agriculture, a Fulbright Alumni, the Dean of the University of Tirana, the United States Ambassador (could not take photos there), and the Mayor of Tirana.

Fulbright Alumni Nancy Neill(left) and Mary Ellen Schmider (right) with President of Albania Fulbright Alumni Association and Alumni of other Exchange Programs, Dritan Mezini

Minister of Agriculture in the center with his staff members on far left and right

Dean of University of Tirana, the number one university in Albania

Mayor of Tirana

We had an informative and interesting round table discussion with Albanian Fulbright Alumni followed by drinks, appetizers, and enjoyable conversation.

Day Ten: Tirana and Kruja

Kruja castle was the center of the Albanian resistence to the 15th century Ottoman invasion, led by Skanderbeg, Albania's national hero.

Citadel

Inside city walls

 Inside are an ethnographic and historical museum, a hamman restored by CHwB, medieval church, teqe, and a watchtower.

Bektashi teqe, holy place of Sufi order of Islam

Tomb of baba

Kruja bazaar, best place to shop for souvenirs in Albania

Shop owner demonstrating handmade felt and slippers

Later, in Tirana, we visited the History Museum where we learned that over two- thousand Jews were protected an dsaved under the Albanian and Muslim principle of Besa, which means one protects those in danger even if risking one's own life.

Day Nine: Gjirokastra to Tirana

After saying goodbye last night to the staff of CHwB, Gjirokastra with a glass and appetizers, we sadly departed.  We visited Apollonia, an ancient Greek colonial settlement, founded in 600 BC.  Our tour guide's father was on the first team of excavators.

The Bouleuterion where the city council met

Stoa B 

Days Five, Six, Seven, and Eight: Gjirokastra

During our free time we ate at different restaurants in Gjirokastra , shopped, and got to know the residents who are not used to having tourists stay for more than a day.  Some of our memorable experiences are the friendliness, hospitality, warmth, and kindness of the Albanians.  They are very interested in Americans and want to talk about relatives who live there

Elena with restaurant owner

Nancy R. with shop owner who crocheted the dresses.

Gayle, Mary, and Cailin with restaurant owner's family who spoiled us
with extra food and then didn't want to charge us for our lunch!

.A unique marketing tactic in front of Mapo restaurant.

We celebrated special days.

Sam's birthday celebration

We continued work on our projects and visited other 23rd Regional Resoration Camp sites.

Washing the 400-year-old door

Sanding the Xhaxhiu door

The Mayor of Gjirokastra visited our work site.

The mayor and our entire work crew

We also visited two other work sites.

The restored stone arch

The Cene House, crew completed analysis, the first step of restoration

The Sinani House

The homeowner invited us in for a tour.

Aldo , our fabulous tour guide for all tours in and around Gjirokastra on the left with
 Fulbrighters and home owner

View outside her bedroom window.

Gjirokastra castle

The home owner saying goodbye

We toured the Cold War bunker and  Ethnographic Museum in Gjirokastra.   The Communists feared an enemy bombing, so this underground facility provided rooms for working and sleeping, toilets, and air ventilation.

Map of tunnels in bunker

Main door to air-raid shelter

Meeting Hall in bunker

Fulbright Alumni next to bunker

Ethnoographic Museum room for men, women peered
through the windows

  We, the UNESCO Cultural and Natural World Heritage Site of Butrint, and the seaside town of Saranda.

Ethnographic Museum room

A one-day excursion to the Albanian Riviera  included a visit to the UNESCO Cultural and Natural World Heritage Site of Butrint,  the seaside town of Saranda, and a castle above Saranda.

Sanctuary to the god of medicine in Butrint

Mosiac in Butrint

Writings to free slaves in Butrint

Saranda, Albanian coast

Enkeleda Roze, Financial Assistant CHwB Gjirokastra, Cailin
and Elizabeth, Fulbright Alumni, having a swim after lunch