Monday, October 5, 2015

Day Two: Gjirokastra

Our first morning in Gjirokastra started at the Cultural Heritage without Borders (CHwB) office, a short walk from our hotel. We met other international participants of the 23rd Regional Restoration Camp, introduced ourselves, and learned about both CHwB and the Gjirokastra.

"The Regional Restoration Camps--Why Are You Here?"

Per Jensen, "Short Introduction on What/how We Are Learning at the Camp"

Prof. Dr. Emin Riza, Albanian Academy of Science, "Gjirokastra as a Part of Albanian Heritage"
After lunch we toured the Gjirokastra Castle, an impressive fortification perched above the city. Although inhabited as early as the 8th centuryBC, most of the citadel that exists today was built during the governance of Ali Pasha Tepelena in the early 19th century.


Clocktower and old Byzantine church inside castle walls

After touring the museums inside the castle, we returned to the office for more presentations: " Introduction to the Buildings, Crafsmen, and Security Measures, " and Introducing the Learning Assessment Methodology and Simulation." After dinner, we had a traditional Albanian dancing class.



Day One: Tirana to Gjirokastra



The last two participants arrived, and we left for Gjirokastra.  This four-hour drive opened the window to rural, southern Albania. We saw vineyards and small fields of corn, cornshocks, olive trees, corn, wheat, cabbage, tomatoes, and grapes.  As we ventured further south, we began to see livestock: turkeys, dairy cows, sheep, goats, burrows, and horses.  Most of the labor was by hand, and transporting was with a wheel barrel or donkey.  Few farms had tractors, and I saw no signs of irrigation.

We stopped half way in Fier for a beverage at Taverna Pelican.  Pelicans,  peacocks and African added to the ambience of the grounds.




After settling in at Hotel Kostra, we had a welcoming dinner with staff from both the Swedish Home Office and the local Gjirokastra Office of Cultural Heritage without Borders.

Joanna LeBlanc, Financial Officer and Marianne Boqvist,
 Project Manager of  CHwB Swedish Office

Anisa Lloja, Camp Coordinator, and Elena Mamani, Project Manager
 and Deputy Head of CHwB Gjirokastra Office




Day One: Free time, Tirana

This morning we took the a glass elevator to the top of our hotel, the Sky Hotel. Our wonderful breakfast buffet offered byrek (Albanian cheese pastry) omelets, sausages, sweet rolls, fruit, tomatoes, cucumbers, bread, yogurt, feta cheese, cereal, fruit juices, tea, coffee, and cappuccinos with an amazing view of Tirana, this time.  After breakfast, Mary Ellen took us to a money exchange and ATMs followed by a walking tour of the main sites of Tirana.

We visited Eastern Orthodox church, main square surrounded by colorful Italian communist buildings, the Et'hem Bey Mosque, Mother Theresa's catholic church, and a park with a bunker and parts of Spac prison and the Berlin wall.

 "Resurrection of Christ" Cathedal

The cathedral's altar with carved wooden iconostasis

The cruciform chapel of the cathedral
National Historical Museum's museum depicting victorious Albanians


Statue of Skanderbeg, Albania's national hero


Mother Teresa Catholic Church



Clock Tower

Caravanserai

Friday, October 2, 2015

Day Zero: Tirana, Albania



After several hours of air travel and at least one connecting flight, eleven Fulbright alumni arrive in Tirana. at the Sky Hotel. Some had met each other in  Rome while waiting for their flight to Tirana  because Jonathon had emailed them pictures of each other.

Although we were scheduled to have a drink together that evening, we ended up having dinner because many arrived hungry.



 The view from the Skytop Restaurant at our hotel was breathtaking.




Thursday, October 1, 2015

Unlocking the Window

In April 2015 Fulbright announced its first Alumni Service Trip to Albania in September for a maximum of twenty participants. This trip, advertised as "giving back to the international community," would include:
  •  an introduction to Albanian heritage;
  •  a week of restoration work with Cultural Heritage without Borders in  Gjirokastra, a World Heritage site;
  • visits to Ottoman-era castles, a Byzantine church, classical archaeological sites, and a communist prison camp;
  • reception with Albanian Fulbright Alumni and alumni of other U.S. exchanges.
The purpose of this trip was to give alumni an opportunity to continue the mission of Fulbright:  to create international partnerships and increase mutual understanding among people of different countries.

After months of planning, the trip began at the Tirana airport on September 7 when Carl and Mary Ellen Schmider (right) --Champion of the Fulbright Service Corp trip were met by and Jonathon Eaton (left)--Program Coordinator of Cultural Heritage without Borders, an award-winning, nonprofit that restores and preserves cultural heritage that has been neglected or destroyed by humans or nature.